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Quick Shot


A quick shot of short-period east wind swell filtered into the south shore on Wednesday. There really hadn't been anything to ride for a few days, so I was eyeballing the forecast for the days leading up. There was going to be wind, and it would certainly be small, but I also knew it would probably be another minute before we got waves again on my beach... so I was going to surf on anything rideable, regardless.


I hit it early, while it was still a bit cold out. Even with the sun shining the outside temps were in the mid 40s. The water is continuing to drop in temperature, but it's still not time to pull out the full winter rubber. While I did wear a 4/3 for this session, I could have easily gotten away with my Hooded 3MM from Isurus, but the boots were a must with the chilly air and steady wind. No sense in having numb feet for an entire session. I posted a gallery below with mostly still images taken from the GoPro video, mixed in with some shots from my iPhone.


The GoPro kicked out after a couple minutes... when it's cold the battery does funky things. But I didn't really get any great waves. It was just too weak and bumpy. I did stretch out my Hooded 4/3 wetsuit from Dakine for the first time this season, and I was able to get in some paddling practice, so not a total loss. Riding shorter boards in these small and soft conditions is difficult at my age and size, but the longboards are too boring for these waves. There weren't many rides longer than 30 yards on offer. You're just better off trying to see if you can paddle yourself into a fun section and find a floater or lip on the closeout. It looks like we're going to be down around here for the next week. So I might take a drive to a beach that picks up the south angles better. Hope you're surfing wherever you are.




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