I recently caught some fun waves and hung out with some old friends in the Aloha state. I stayed on the west side of Oahu for most of my vacation, crashing with my oldest surfing buddy from childhood, and the ultimate bartender. We avoided the surfing madness that is Waikiki, and attempted to find some less inhabited spots. But we did a fair amount of highway surfing trying to avoid the heavy trade winds. Then I took a 4-day Island hop to Kauai to visit an old college chum and fellow noSEEum, where I surfed Pakalas and Waiohai. Also met up with a former colleague and good friend, the island-famous Mr. M. I crashed his abode in Lihue for a couple days, got the ultimate Kauai Tesla tour, bought a pair of baggies at Tamba, and snagged a super fun log session at an uncrowded Kalapaki Beach. I then managed one more surf on some microwaves, upon returning to Oahu, at a secret beach break spot, before falling ill with Covid, AGAIN. I've been to Hawaii twice in 2024. Both times punched in the face by the Hawaiian Covid.
I only surfed a beach break that one time during the trip. I was able to stick a camera in a tree for that session of super small lameness, while also sick with covid... the rest of my sessions were far paddles and not good spots for shooting video without getting hassled by a crusty local, or worse a stolen camera. I'd say my evening surf at Waiohai in Poipu, Kauai was the premiere session of the trip. I got more than a few zippers among the green turtles, across the inside reef, giving up the outside sets to the Hawaiians. One thing I've learned about surfing there... give the locals waves, and your surf session go way bettah. I did get washed up on the reef at Waiohai, on a closed-out section that forced me straight... and right in front of the hotel with a bunch of folks gathered for the sunset. So that was probably entertaining for them, not so much for me. I'm just thankful there are no photos of that... well, at least that I'm aware of hahaha.
I rode my Lost RNF '96 the entire trip outside of the longboard that I rented in Kalapaki. The performance fish shape worked really well in all the different conditions from the small to overhead days. It's definitely a one-board-quiver for waves that aren't too consequential. I rode it mainly as a thruster during this trip just to keep me out of trouble on my backside. I've logged a ton of hours on this shape so I just felt more comfortable than jumping on a performance shortboard I've barley ridden- a 6'3 x 20 round tail that I had brought with me. The truth is, I've got no interest in shortboards anymore. Hybrids, fish, and longboards, that's all I need. You can keep your potato chips. Surprisingly, the Black Dart construction felt fine in the more powerful but very friendly pacific summer surf. There wasn't any chatter or too-floaty of a feeling either. I was getting into waves early, and finding good spots to make turns and hit lips. I'd bring this shape anywhere to surf waves in the waist high to just overhead range. My RNF is dialed in at 5'11 x 21.1 x 2.62, 37L. I'm currently weighing in at 195 lbs, 6 foot 2 inches.
I'm back home now, recuperated from my 17-day trek across the globe. And I've even gotten a few days of surfing in some knee high sliders, stirred up by some mild tropical activity in the Atlantic- I'll post an August surf gallery soon. But below are some photos from the trip. I didn't get many pictures personally, I was focused on being in the moment with my buddies. Thank you to all my rad Hawaiian friends for lending me your guest rooms and couches, it was so awesome visiting, seeing the sites, and catching up with you guys. I really love the islands and appreciate all the Aloha you've shown me! Mahalo, and I'll see you in January.
Hawaiian Summer Vacation Gallery
Got to Tamba while I was in Kauai... now I know what all those hats mean, hahaha.