Surfing Before Work


So I haven't had a job where I was able to surf before work in quite some time. While I do have stretches where I don't work during the year, I've mostly turned into a weekend warrior. My schedule does not have much flexibility on weekdays during the traditional school year. Being a teacher, I do take advantage of summer, but once September begins, I'm owned by Norwood High School.

Frustrated by ill-timed weekend flat spells, I saw that there was a Tuesday lining up with the beginning of a swell where I didn't need to be at work until 8am. It was a professional growth day, so my normal reporting time of 6:45am wasn't a thing. With daylight savings making first light later, I only had a 45 minute window to surf. Work was a 30 minute drive from the beach so I would be cutting it close. I wasn't going to have another chance to surf for at least another week, so I went for it.

I arrived to Nantasket about 15 minutes before first light. I got suited up and hit the water as the glow of daybreak was beginning to peak over the horizon. I was the first guy in the water, not my favorite when it's still technically shark season. It didn't feel that cold, I was wearing my 4/3 Rip Curl Flashbomb, 3mm boots, and 2mm hood and gloves.

I was able to get two good waves in about 20 minutes. The current was strong and the waves were about head high with plenty of white water to manage. I chased those two rides down with my 9'2 single fin, duck diving wasn't real easy, so I got a good work out. Felt like I paddled the entire time. My second wave wasn't quite a touchdown, but 85 years is pretty decent. I managed a few turns. I bellied an inside section to the beach as the sun began to rise.

I was out of my suit, dry, and warming up in my car by 7:20am. I did hit some traffic on I-93 coming out of Quincy, but I rolled into the parking lot at work at 7:59. Mission accomplished. My boring meetings didn't seem so bad because I knew I had rode a few waves. I handled the day with a sense of peace and calm. Man, I miss surfing before work. It just sets the tone.

Next chance to surf before work comes again in the spring when the days get longer.

#dawnpatrol #firstlight #Nantasket