There have been plenty of days of surfing so far this Fall, and a strong start to the month of October. This last stretch of east swell provided three days and 91 waves before my lower back began to fail. I'm going to need at least a week of rest before I can think about surfing again. Hell, I'd be stoked if I could put my shoes on by myself right now, but the aches and pains are temporary. I'm going to lie on a flat surface for a while and marvel at the 104 waves I caught the past 10 days. Hopefully the South Shore isn't a flat surface when I'm feeling better. I'm on track for a big year, wave wise, sitting around 650 rides after I clean out the non-waves from the count. It's been good around here a lot lately, and the trend is likely to continue. Hope you're surfing where you are.
top of page
bottom of page