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F*cking Fintastic



I guess I break fins on December 18th now... wondering what the chances are for a three-peat in 2024? There's no way I'm not surfing that day if there are waves and I'm healthy. That being said, I'm not truly healthy at the moment nursing a really sore lower back, with still a moderate amount of shoulder pain. My inability to twist at the hip and rotate shoulders probably caused this wipeout in the first place. But whatever the cause, I've still no regrets, and will choose to surf on any and every day there are waves, in which my body will allow. I honestly get really sad when I think about being too old to surf someday... but I truly feel that my surfing retirement is still far-off in the distance.


There are so many Floridian rippers, well past the age of 50, that lead by example. And I'm not talking about the obvious former pros and hall-of-famers like Slater, Spier, and Kechele. There are at least a half dozen dudes in my neighborhood, born before '74, out tearing it up, when it gets good. The ratio of rippers to intermediates and kooks is extremely high in these waters.


Having also aggravated my sciatica, I'm finding it painful just to do regular stuff right now like walk, and sit. So I'm going to need another break to heal up. Hopefully, I'll be well enough for a paddle when I'm in Hawai'i next month for Shoots Summit. Fingers crossed I'll get in the water on the days I'm available to surf. Merry Christmas, Happy New Year everybody... I hope you're surfing where you are!





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