Spring Skunk


I caught NINE waves in FIVE sessions the past SIXTY days... yeah nine. Shame on me. But this epic skunk wasn't from a total lack of dedication. Despite there being no waves on a lot of the days I was off from work, I did in fact paddle out five times. Here are some other really valid reasons for not catching a ton of waves this spring...

Top-5 Excuses:

1. The wind was blowing hard and it was a sloppy mess

2. I was exhausted from paddling in a 5 mil wetsuit

3. I got really cold because I tried to wear a 4/3 wetsuit

4. I chose the wrong board to ride that day

5. Suffered extreme ice cream headache due to repeated duck-diving

Also, I feel like the beach is shaped differently due to the storms this past winter. It just hasn't been good at my home break on the smaller days lately. There seems to be a lull in the wave during the mid to high tides. When the tide is totally low, it's not an issue, but the extreme ends of the tides in Nantasket are rarely the best time to surf. I'm missing those semi-glassy, thigh to waist-high mornings where I catch a lot of waves on my longboard... right now they just aren't peeling.

UPDATE: I'm still reserving my review of the VEC 7'6 Singlecut... because I haven't surfed it in the conditions for which I bought it. So far, the new stick has not fared well in small waves. Even though it's not shaped for that, I just thought it would have had more glide to it, especially since it has that heavy-duty glass job. I didn't especially enjoy diving its fun-shaped nose repeatedly under the wind-blown, short-period treadmill that Nantasket Beach has become lately. I do think this midsize single fin could be a great winter sled when I'm wearing thick rubber at a point up in New Hampshire.

A couple of shots including a nice sunset in Hull and on the Boston Harbor...

#spring #sobstory