March is the busiest month of the year for me. It's really difficult to surf. There's a very low probability of good wave conditions lining up with free time. But in order to surf during other parts of the year, I need to make money where I can. The first three times I had a shot at getting wet were fruitless, but the last weekend in March rewarded me with a nice day at Horseneck Beach.
I'd heard that the surf was decent a few days before, when the official reports were saying it was not, So I took a chance yesterday and thankfully scored. I was the only guy out for an hour-long solo session. I paddled out around 7:15AM and surfed for about an hour. The air wasn't too cold, in the low 40's, but the water was still freezing so I wore my 5/4 Rip Curl E-Bomb with hood, gloves and 7mil boots.
The cross-shore wind was blowing pretty steady so there was a bump, but faces were mostly clean. I got a bunch of long rides as the tide dropped out, racing the walls until they shut down on the inside sandbar. I had put a 9-inch flex fin in my log not too long ago and for days like this it really has increased the board's performance. The way it slings back into the pocket off a long wrap around... I'm kicking myself for not doing this earlier. I guess I thought I was being cool with that 8-inch cuttie meant to work with 2 side fins.
I love Horseneck Beach. There's simply no one there in the winter, give or take a local jogger. But that's part of the allure. I don't fear being alone or dying or pretty much anything. I live in the moment as much as possible. I've always said I'm a modern Han Solo. I travel through space and time, on my own terms, and I mostly go it alone. If you show disrespect, I will shoot first. Han Solo is a survivor. I also think he's a surfer. The Star Wars franchise just hasn't figured out that part of his character yet.
